Currently viewing the tag: "dof"
One of my fast lens the Tamron SP 28-75mm F/2.8
Not to be too technical here, fast glass also known as fast lens are lenses that have a larger maximum aperture or lower f-stops, like F/2.8, F/1.8 and F/1.4. It does not refer to the auto focus system of the lens, so even if the lens is equipped with the latest autofocus mechanism such the USM or HSM (sigma) and can acquire focus really fast, it’s not necessarily a fast lens. So if you happen to notice a F/2.8 on the specification or description of the lens then it is a fast lens. A lens with a minimum aperture of F/2.8 and wider are considered to fast lenses (F/2.8, F/2.0, F/1.8 F/1.4, F/1.2 with F/1.2 being the fastest and more low light capable and certainly the most expensive.).
But what exactly is it and do we really need it? Since a fast lens has a larger maximum aperture it’s aperture ring has a larger opening compare to non fast lens like the kit lens, therefore allowing more light to reach the sensor faster, and because more light was able to reach the sensor faster it then allows the photographer to use a faster shutter speed. Also, fast lenses will give us a really nice background bokeh, which are perfect for portraiture or close-up and macro.
Do we really need it? The simple answer is yes and no. Fast glass are expensive and not everyone can afford it, so yes if you can afford it, it’s certainly good know that you have one anytime you need it. Fast glass is essential especially when shooting in low light to capture important scene or to freeze the action. On the other hand with the advancement of technology, camera bodies are now getting powerful to the extent that you can get away by increasing your ISO even to a 1000 or even more and will still give you great images. Take for example this photo below which was taken using my EF 70-200mm F/4L IS USM lens, it’s an F/4 lens which is really isn’t enough when shooting sports especially in a stadium that lights aren’t really something to be desired. The photo was shot using the Canon EOS 60d set at ISO 1000.
So should we really go with a fast glass? What I can recommend is, just save up for a fast glass. A fast glass is always a better and will help a talented photographer capture more stunning photographs.
My Lenses:
The EF 85mm F/1.8 & EF 50mmF/1.8 are my fastest lens and the EF-s 10-22 being the slowest of them all having a variable aperture of F/3.5-4.5
From left back: EF 10-22mm F/3.5-4.5, Tamron 28-75mm F/2.8, EF 70-200mm F/4L IS USM. Front EF 50mm F/1.8 II, EF 85mm F/1.8 USM
This is the back of my Swiss Army Watch. Shot with a Canon Rebel XS, and EF 85mm 1.8
This is the back of the same wrist watch I photograph yesterday, I’ve had this watch for a very long time and it’s my favorite one, but I really don’t notice those scratches in the back until today when I shot the close-up photo. Anyway, lighting the watch was fairly easy, compare to yesterday, the only light source was a soft white flourescent light and the flash, this one I use ambient light from the window and use the flash as fill. I could have gotten away with just the ambient light, but prefer use the flash anyway. Let me know what you think, I really appreciate any input you may have. Thanks.
Photo created using :
- Canon EOS Rebel XS 1000d
- Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 USM Medium Telephoto Lens
- Pro Optic Budget Auto Extention Tube
- PT-04 4 channel Wireless Radio Hot Shoe Slave Flash Trigger Receiver for Canon EOS, Nikon, Olympus & Pentax Flashes
More info :
- Exposure Program : Manual
- Shutter Speed : 1/160
- Aperture : F/3.5
- ISO : 200
- Lightsource : Off camera flash
Swiss Army Watch. Shot with a Canon Rebel XS, and EF 85mm 1.8
It’s past 5 pm and I still haven’t taken a photo for today. I quickly look around my desk and notice my old wrist watch, yeah, that’s it. I use my Rebel xs, EF 85mm F/1.8 with the pro optic auto extension tube with off camera flash. Since I’m too close to the watch, bouncing the light of the ceiling isn’t possible, so I move slightly to the left and the light was bounce off a white wall illuminating the subject from the side.
Photo created using :
- Canon EOS Rebel XS 1000d
- Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 USM Medium Telephoto Lens
- Pro Optic Budget Auto Extention Tube
- PT-04 4 channel Wireless Radio Hot Shoe Slave Flash Trigger Receiver for Canon EOS, Nikon, Olympus & Pentax Flashes
More info :
- Exposure Program : Manual
- Shutter Speed : 1/200
- Aperture : F/3.5
- ISO : 200
- Lightsource : Off camera flash
Spice rack. Aperture set at F/1.8 @ 50mm
Photo of the day for Feb. 2, 2011, Day 32. Continuing on Depth of field for this weeks theme. I was actually thinking of what to make for dinner when I noticed the spice rack. Since I still don’t have a photograph for today, I decided to take a few snapshot of the rack.
Taken with my Canon Rebel XS with EF 50mm F/1.8.
More info:
- Shutter speed: 1/80
- Aperture : F/1.8
- ISO 200
- Exposure Program : Manual
- Flash : Fired. Off camera, 1 meter to my right. Pointed up to bounce the light of a white ceiling.
Photo of the Day for Feb. 1, 2011.
My Specialized Allez
Shot at f/F/1.8 using a EF 85mm F/1.8 attached with a Canon EOS 20d
Playing around with DOF
This week, I decided, I will go back to basics and play around Depth of Field a little bit. Now what is this Depth of Field(DOF). It is the amount of distance between the nearest and farthest objects that appear in acceptably sharp focus in a photograph. It is affected by the aperture and focal length. A wide aperture (smaller number like F/2.8, F/2, F/1.4) will result in shallow depth of field isolating the subject or the focus by blurring the background.
The photo above was shot using a EF 50mm F/1.8 using manual focus. Shot in AE, the Aperture was set at the widest which is F/1.8 to isolate the part I wanted in focus. This gave me a shallow depth of field for the remaining portion of the photograph.
A Tendril. My photo for Jan 4, 2011. I took this picture today when I went out to run. I’m always fascinated with tendrils, they can climb they can attached themselves to trees, and as little as they are they can support themselves by forming a strong anchor point.
Taken with my Canon Rebel XS and EF 50mm F/1.8 on aperture priority with an aperture of F/2.0, ISO 100
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